anyone ever used davids isopon p38 easy sand filler?
just wondering if you guys know best sabdpaper to use as im haveing a hard job getting it smooth?
im currently use p180 is this the right grade?
anyone ever used davids isopon p38 easy sand filler?
just wondering if you guys know best sabdpaper to use as im haveing a hard job getting it smooth?
im currently use p180 is this the right grade?
no
thanks guys bit late now as i already used some it, its not used for the car i have used it for mdf i know it sounds silly but this guy built a false wall useing mdf and filled the cracks with p38 and said after months its still good not cracked.
im finding it hard to sand down, but im only useing p180, i dont know whever to pop out and buy Black & Decker Mouse, these sanders any good ? never had a sander before.
Rough out filler with 36, followed by 80, followed by 150, followed by 320. Expect to apply 2-3 coats of filler, save the fine sanding for the last coat.
If you are seeing rings in the paint a couple days after it dries (mapping) you aren't following your initial sanding with a fine enough sand paper. Use 80 first, followed by 180, followed by 320, all on a sander. Use primer surfacer to prime. Spray a guide coat with some spray can paint, just a dust coat, then sand the primer until you no longer see the guide colour. If you still can"t get the paint to feather, the paint is at fault, and needs stripped.
HTH...
*edit* just read again... a wall ?!?
Last edited by BFG; 28th December 2007 at 01:33 PM.
Time Flies when you're having fun! A decade of DF - April 2002-2012.
cheers bfg im useing this stuff on wood mate, is it because i was just useing p180 is that fine? would it be alot easyer if i bought a black and decker mouse, never had a black and decker mouse so not sure how good they are.
are you building a partitioning wall in a room or something? Depends what kinda finish you want. I've partitioned a room before and personally I built timber framework, plasterboarded and skimmed, makes it easier to run electrics through.
What is it you're doing exactly m8?
Time Flies when you're having fun! A decade of DF - April 2002-2012.
bfg im building a false wall useing 3 pices of mdf, so need to filler the joins where they meet.
i only used p38 as couple of guys used it when they done there false walls and said its good stuff as it dont crack unlike pollyfilla after a few months.
however im haveing hard time sanding it down :-/ i was sanding it for about 30 mins last night and made little progress :-/ maybe its because i was only useing p180 sandpaper i dont know, im useless at the grades needed for sanding .
was thinking of going to go and buy a black and decker mouse sander which might cut out all the hard sanding down but dont know how good they are.
Last edited by jjcool; 28th December 2007 at 01:41 PM.
what's going to be applied to the "wall" once complete m8? What size gaps are we talking? What's the false wall hiding, is it soundproofing in an alcove or...
Time Flies when you're having fun! A decade of DF - April 2002-2012.
well its a false wall mate to mount my tv, the mdf are screwed onto a frame sitting behind, gaps are only about 2-3 mm also the screw holes roughtly 10mm needed to be filled and sanded over.
When I got my 42" LCD for the bedroom I took the easy option and ceiling mounted it, had to add extra beams and coach bolt it.
What I'm trying to establish is, are you just painting the MDF or are you applying a plaster skim or papering it. With you paying attention to the quality of the sanding, I'm presuming you're not planning on putting anything on at all? If you were applying something on top of the MDF, the quality of the sanding isn't as important as it will be hidden.
I now understand why you are using body filler, as it hardens on chemical reaction and there's no shrinkage due to evaporation on conventional fillers.
Last edited by BFG; 28th December 2007 at 01:58 PM.
Time Flies when you're having fun! A decade of DF - April 2002-2012.
bfg, im going to paint it mate, after i have sanded all the joins and used mdf primer.
A mouse might be worth a try - have you got any scraps of MDF you can test with to see what results you get on a smaller scale first?
Time Flies when you're having fun! A decade of DF - April 2002-2012.
yeah i got some scraps left mate.
but dont wana buy the mouse if its not up to the job, never had one never used one. but if it will make light work of it then i would buy one.
No mates with one you can borrow?
Time Flies when you're having fun! A decade of DF - April 2002-2012.
no mate they always ask me for tools etc but a mouse is one thing i dont have.
hey just a thought dont b&q do refunds? thinking of taking it back after useing it through think its will be a bit too dusty after useing it to do that. lol
hey good idea my man never though of that, knowing my luck they will say they will replace it with another working one lol , looks like black and decker mouse it is .
now looking on site theres 120 grit & 40 Grit any of these do the job to sand it down smooth?
probably the lower the grit the better, or get 1 of each 120 and 40 - start with the 120 and move to 40 if it's too abbrasive. Think you can get polishing pads for the mouse too, lol. Quite a versatile tool, might get one
Time Flies when you're having fun! A decade of DF - April 2002-2012.
do u think 40 grit will be ok mate to sand down primer,thought 40 was Very coarse ?
is it more or less abbrasive than the p180 i was useing ?
sorry im useless at sandpaper grades lol, the p180 was working but just taking too much time lol
b and q do either 120 or 40 so got to choose 1 , as dont wana buy the 2 packs. ( tight budget lol )
ok seems they do other grits
120,
40,
60,
80,
would u say 120 which is a medium grit is best one to fo for ?
Last edited by jjcool; 28th December 2007 at 02:41 PM.
Rub it down with 40 grit if thats all they have, 80 would be better though. Then go over it with the 180.
In a perfect world youd use 80 then 120 then 240.
urbsy
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urbsy's cat says destroy all censorship on cat porn!
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