Olive oil is nearly as old as time itself. Its story is woven into the legends and daily life of the people of the Mediterranean; history and literature are filled with references to olives and oil, and trees planted in biblical times still bear fruit.
These days, as we understand how healthy, delicious and versatile Homer's 'liquid gold' is, it's more important than ever to know how to buy the best when faced with an array of tempting bottles luring us to buy, like the sirens from The Odyssey.
The flavour of an olive oil is influenced by numerous factors, such as the variety of olive, how and where the olives are grown, and how they're harvested and pressed.
Unlike wine, however, olive oil doesn’t benefit from ageing.
Olive varieties
Arbequina, Frantoio, Hojiblanca, Kalamata, Picholine and Picual are just some of the hundreds of olive varieties grown around the world. Like grapes, olives differ in flavour, colour and fragrance. Their flavour will also vary subtly from year to year, and even from one pressing to another.
Olive trees can grow in poor soil where other crops can't and they can survive periods of lengthy drought, but if the soil is well cultivated and the trees are properly pruned, they will bear much more fruit. The weather, the method of harvesting and the method of extraction also play a part in influencing the quality of oil produced.
There is no such thing as 'green' or 'black' olive varieties. Every olive starts green and turns black when it is ripe. Taste is largely determined by the variety of the olive and its degree of ripeness when picked.
Harvesting and extracting the oil
Both the timing and method of harvesting have a huge impact on the finished oil. In autumn, the olives need to be picked when perfectly ripe but before they start falling from the trees.
Hand-picked olives produce the best result but, as this process is labour-intensive, add to the final cost of the oil. Mechanical methods, which use machines to shake the fruit from the tree, can sometimes damage the fruit. Either way, once picked, olives should be pressed as quickly as possible to minimise deterioration.
Extraction methods vary from the artisan and traditional to the industrial and high-tech, but the basic steps are the same: first grinding or crushing the olives; then pressing them to extract the liquid; then separating the oil from the water and solids.
The method of extraction is a major factor in the taste of the finished oil. The first pressing gives oil of the highest quality. Olives may undergo a second or third pressing; the oil will decrease in quality with each pressing.
Types of olive oil
Olive oils are graded according to their aroma, flavour, colour and the level of acidity. The highest-quality oils have the lowest acidity levels. The two highest-quality oils are:
Extra virgin: highest-quality oil in terms of taste and aroma, with the lowest acidity level (a maximum of one per cent). Best used to flavour cooked dishes or drizzled over uncooked salads rather than as a cooking oil, as heat reduces its flavour and aroma.
Virgin: high-quality oil with excellent taste and aroma; may have slightly more acidity than extra virgin. Virgin olive oil can be used for everyday salads and cooking. Light or delicate dishes need a mild oil; robust ones can take a fruity, stronger oil.
Extra virgin and virgin olive oils are both cold-pressed, which means that heat (which can adversely affect the quality) was not used to extract the oil.
Olive oil labelled as 'pure' olive oil or simply 'olive oil' is usually a mix of refined olive oils and virgin oils from the second and third pressings. It doesn't have the vibrant flavour and aroma or virgin oils, but is good for general cooking, such as frying, sautéing or baking.
Some oils are sold as 'unfiltered'. Unfiltered olive oil is more opaque because it still contains tiny suspended particles of the olives. The particles will sink to the bottom over time and create some sediment. Whether you prefer filtered or unfiltered oil is a matter of preference.
Labelling logic?
It may come as a surprise to hear that legislation allows countries to import oil, bottle it and re-export it without having to declare the country of origin of the oil.
So if a bottle says 'produce of', 'bottled in' or 'packed in' Italy, for example, it may be a blend of Italian, Spanish and Greek or Moroccan oil. To avoid confusion, look out for oils that indicate a region of origin or which clearly identify where the olives have been grown and pressed. A change in Italian law is underway to ensure clearer labelling in the future.
Blended, single-variety and single-estate oils
Commercial extra virgin olive oil is similar to vin de table - the large brand names buy oil in bulk and blend it to standard specifications. The result is consistent, inexpensive oil, useful for cooking, but which can be boring compared to the best artisan oils.
Artisan oils, whether made from olives of a single variety, from olives grown on a single estate, or expertly blended from different varieties of olives from recognised growers, will have a more individual character, aroma and taste than commercial blended oils will have. They will also tend to be more expensive. Price and quality
The high price of the finest olive oils generally reflects the fact they are made in limited quantities, and the care taken from picking to pressing. In most cases, you get what you pay for but you may get bargains if you shop around.
It's also a question of personal choice: some may prefer a mellow, fruity flavour and others a pungent and peppery one. Top quality artisan-produced olive oil isn't cheap but compared to a bottle of wine, which lasts just one meal, a bottle of good olive oil (which has taken just as much effort and care to produce) will last far longer.
Storage
Unlike wine, olive oil does not improve the longer it is kept and once opened it will begin to slowly deteriorate.
The enemies of oil are heat, light, air and age, so don't buy your oil in large quantities
Keep it in a cool, dark place (but not the fridge) and, after opening, use within a month or two
Buy your oil either in dark glass bottles or metal containers and avoid buying oil that has been standing under bright supermarket lights in clear glass bottles, no matter how tempting the labels
my local deli does some great chilli olives that have been de-stoned and marinated in olive oil, galic, chili flakes, capers and few chopped herbs. You can also take in your own bottles to fill up with olive oil
I always buy mine once every few months from the Indian Supermarket in Preston. Very very cheap and great oil in a big can like an old oil can. Keep it in the shed to keep it cool and top a bottle up regularly.
Olive oil
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