The wifes car now develops a fault a week.
The latest is the engine turns over freely,but wont start or even attempt to kick in.
I can smell petrol,so assume its getting some.
I suspect that its maybe dampness,but dont know how to cure.
Its an 89 Supra 3.0i Turbo,recent service and HT leads etc.
Any help appreciated guys,otherwise she'll want to drive mine,and I'll have to do the school run...........argghhhhh !!!!
Thx in advance.
If you can smell petrol are you sure its not leaking somewhere? Maybe a pipe has come off so no fuel is getting to the engine? My brothers girlfriends car did the same thing last week, but with no petrol smell. Its a 205 GTI, couldn't see anything amiss so we tried bumping it and it started. Been fine since afaik. Wouldn't like to try bumping a Supra though!
Take off the distributor cap and clean it and the contacts. Do the same for the rotor arm.
I've had a lot of cars that have done this at this time of the year.
Failing that, I'm afraid thats the extent of my car knowledge lol
Lost
try this too!!
Take one of the HT leads off and get your wife to turn the engine over and while its turning over touch the lead on a metal part of the engine to see if u get a spark!! if not the coil might be at the problem!! also try as the others say like distributor cap, rotor and also make sure the fuse for the fuel pump is not blown!!
Also if none of these are at fault then i could possibly be the ECU at fault or something else but without seeing i cant tell
Hope this helps
Richard
Thx guys for your help.
My mechanic m8,had a look tonite,and says that there is "no spark".
Seemingly it doesnt have a distubutor,but 3 ignition blocks.
Cant bump start it cos its automatic.
He suggests sticking it back into the main dealer,so that they can narrow down the fault.
Unfortunately 2 weeks ago,they charged me £250 to narrow down a fault-"new HT leads":shock:
As u can imagine,Im seriously thinking about the old petrol can and matches trick....lol.
Last edited by beekae; 26th November 2002 at 07:24 PM.
K-Guys,the fecker is still sitting outside my house.
The "main" dealer has now informed me,that they no longer uplift cars.
Xmas time,3 brats,a wife and a mortgage....plz advise on "no spark" ????...disconnected alarm BTW,just in case.
Anything I could try...DIY..??
sorry m8 i know nothink of this car but i would think it sounds like a not to big a prob i trust your plugs are ok and correctly gapped,type ect?? and they are on in the right firing order??? all i can say is fords used to have a prob like this all the time ezzys orions and it was usually the small box fitted to side of dizzy that was faulty,hence no spark.which could be picked up at scrappy for about £5 or nothink? if u can find a local scrappy with same car, engine? you could buy? a few small ignition parts to try a bit of swapping and changing,see if you narrow the prob down(get a spark) sorry i cant be of more help but doin this and having your head under the bonnet are worlds apart
booboo
if in doubt
burn it out
LOL
saves u paying for more parts
Well then i was right about the no spark then!!
Umm... im not too sure about this car but obvioulsy there must be a coil of somesort or a coil type unit whihc produces the spark!!
u may have to resort to ur workshop manual to confirm this!!
Best thing to do is to check all connections to the coil or unit which is the coil and if thats o.k then it may be that u are going to need to get either a new unit or a second hand one from a scrappy!! also another thing u could do is check all fuses just in case the japs have done something funny as to put a fuse to control this!!
Umm or another thing u could do is if u have RAC or AA get them to look at it as they have the equipment that may indicate down to the item thats U/S obviously without looking i cant see but im telling u what i would do upto a point!!
Anything else please reply to me on P/M or here
Take care and dont get too stressed
Richard Kennedy BSc
Cheers Guys,Im on the case now.
Just want to try some advise before bending over for Mr Toyota dealership.
Thx again...I'll let u know.
JOIN AA
JOIN AA RAC OR GREEN FLAG BUT INCLUDE HOMESTART !!!! OR TOW IT A MILE FROM HOME ITS AUTO BUT A MILE SHOULD NOT KILL IT "IF YA DRIVE SLOW I THINK"
THEN GIVE IT A FEW DAYS CALL EM OUT AND GET THEM TO FIND THE FAULT SAVES PAYING THE DEALER FOR THE PRIVILEGE OF SLAPPING YA ASS !!!!
AND LEAST YA CAN GET HOME IF IT BREAKS DOWN AGAIN EHH
WORTH A GO
If you tried all the above, all I can say is check all wiring to ignition modules and coil.
Disconnect any connectoer and wd40 them, then check all fuse's and relay's....
Sorted yet? I'd put my money on a crank sensor being the problem, but thats just a guess going by the little information I have. Your car has engine management which controls the ignition through using sensors to detect how its running and adjust accordingly. Glasgow is awash with mobile mechanics and engine tuners, get the Thomsons local and find one with a fault code reader for your particular car and he'll be able to tell you where the problem lies quickly whether the car is running or not. The other thing that springs to mind is the fact that its only 2 weeks out of the dealer for the repair of a closely related problem which I doubt is coincidence. Also, have you made sure the cambelt isn't snapped or lost teeth? Had someone turn the engine over while you watch and make sure the cam pulleys are turning? You'd be amazed how often people can't be bothered removing a cover to check this and assume its ok, only to find that was the problem all along and all they had done was waste time looking elsewhere. Worst comes to the worst, I'll try and make time to come look at it myself this weekend if your still stuck, seeing I'm in Glasgow regularly anyway. Let me know how you get on with it either way. Good luck.
I've looked a bit further into your particular car because, to be quite honest I have never had one in for repair, probably because they are a world away from common. Anyway.......... It seems (thanks to Autodata) that yours is one of few cars that need no fault code readers to allow you to read fault codes from the ECU, so, depending on how mechanically minded, or brave you are, you could not only read the faults recorded by the ECU, but also find out what the numbers relate to and what you can do to correct the fault. Attached are images that show where to connect a jumper wire to show the codes and how to read them. Once you have done that and have a code (we hope) post it here and I'll tell you the problem it relates to.
Hybrid,sorry for not replying to your posts.They are really appreciated.Ive just looked in again tonite.
The car came back today.
The latest is;
The Main Dealer claimed that they no longer uplift cars(cheers uncle Arnie
I phoned an old m8,a mechanic with some electic techy equipment,who arranged uplift for £30.
He got it to his garage.....and...guess what...it started first time:cheese:
He kept it a couple of days(in which time,it started every time...the fecker).
He says an ignition wire had been amateurishly repaired,he fixed,but wasnt convinced.
Codes,there were 3,2 relating to crankshaft..(Hybrid
He claims,understandably,that these could have been in the memory for any length of time...so wiped them,assuming that if it chucks it again,he can pinpoint it.
Thanks for all the help,fingers crossed.
Special thx to Hybrid,probably be in touch soon...
Your mechanic is right when he says that the fault codes could have been stored in the ECU for a long time, but the fact they were recorded at all means the fault did exist at one point or another and can't be put down to coincidence. But....on the other hand, his diagnosis of a badly wired Ign would account for the problem you described. There are so many things that COULD stop an engine from turning over, more so in an automatic which has extra electrical\electronic safeguards to ensure the driver can't start it up in gear. The power that a starter motor demands from your battery, even in these days of geared starters to reduce the required battery power, is far in excess of the load any ignition switch could bare, which is why every modern starter has a "solenoid" which is usually mounted on top of the starter and acts as a relay so that a lesser load, switched by your ignition in the start position, can switch the higher load (Raw battery power) the starter motor needs to rotate and engage the flywheel in order to turn the engine. The point I'm trying hard to get at is, there is a thin wire going to your started from the ignition switch that actuates the solenoid and turns the engine. If that wire becomes dislodged or disconected, your engine won't turn over. This is a really common fault in many cars today because the starter motor is usually mounted very low on the engine which see's it exposed to road debris as well as both weather and extremes of temperature if its mounted near the exhaust manifold. FWD cars are particularly prone to this problem because the transversely mounted engines move back and forth as we pull away or change gear. Soft engine mounts allow that engine to move further than it was designed to, and the resultant strain on the wire running from the wiring loom (from ign switch) to the solenoid will either totally disconnect it, or make it insecure enough to give you the bad connection you need to stop the starter from turning. This problem may be more prone in FWD cars, but its also common in RWD cars. Anyway.........Hopefully it'll stay fixed so you can regain your trust in it.
I told you it was a problem a week...!!
The car now seems to be losing water from the radiator,emptying almost every second day,and overheating.
There doesnt seem to be any obvious signs of water loss(new rad and hoses fitted last month).
To make matters worse,I checked the oil,and it appears a pale greenish colour on the dipstick.(oil change 2 months ago)
The exhaust also seems smokier than usual.
Please dont tell me its the dreaded "CHG"....please.:grr:
the heads probably cracked or warped.
hes right - The engine mount went on my missus fiesta and it made the engine rock back and fouth allowing the it to cut through the radiator pipe and drain it when she was driving. The engine overheated and the Head went - result green slime for oil and a oiltank with over a litre of water in it. Its not to hard to fix but was a pain in the arse - on your car it way well be alot harder though - also toyota are complete B*astard when it comes to parts - I have a 95 celica and use the celcii scapper in devon to send me parts as its loads cheaper - £80 for a dashboard dimmer switch I dont think so Mr toyota. Good cars though.
cheers
Ironman
Did she put diesel in it ??
Im sure this was in a previous thread :-)
Only kidding m8, just that I know little about cars but wanted to contirbute something :-)
.
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