Nissan Almera Tino 2.2dci cold idle problem

[maltloaf]

Hi all,

I have a 2004 Nissan Almera Tino with a 2.2 dci turbo diesel engine.

I recently had a problem where I was getting dumped into limp mode fairly frequently during low rev / slight load driving which was rectified by fitting a new fuel filter and cleaning the injectors.

I now have a new fault which is that the cold idle is terrible. I mean when the car is VERY cold, as in the first ten minutes or so in the morning. It can be left a few hours and the problem does not return, but the next morning it happens again.

The symptoms are that when idling, every 3 - 4 seconds, I seem to get a 'misfire' when the revs drop momentarily and the car almost stalls (it even sometimes does stall). After around 10 minutes, the idle is normal and the car is smooth as silk when driving and at idle. I'm getting good fuel economy and very good performance.

I have checked and cleaned the plugs to all of the sensors, cleaned and checked the EGR valve and swapped the MAF over to a good secondhand one, with no effect.

The problem was NOT there before the fuel filter was changed and the injectors cleaned, and the only other work done was that the oil and oil filter were replaced (at the same time as the other work) - could the cold viscosity of the oil they used be too high for the engine maybe ?

If anyone has any ideas of what I can check or where I might look, then I would appreciate it.

Many thanks,

malty

[russell]

Sounds like its getting air into the fuel system.is the seal on the fuel filter fitted right?Also be worth checking glow plugs.
How did you clean injectors?

[maltloaf]

Thanks for the answer. Is there anyway I can check for air ? I have had a feel around for split pipes around the intake and can't feel anything. He said he used a new seal when the filter was fitted.

The injectors were cleaned in situ by running some kind of flush through.

Also regarding the glow plugs, aren't they out of the equation a couple of minutes after starting? My problem lasts a good 10 mins before it smooths out and goes away.

Cheers,

Malty

[russell]

As a process of elimination i would try a NEW fuel filter and sealing ring.If the egr valve has a vaccum pipe to it disconnect it and blank off pipe
On some diesels heater plugs go on and off untill engine is at operating temperature
I hope you mean you put fuel injector cleaner in diesel tank and not took pipes off injectors and poured something in
Russell

[BIG-TED]

could be a duff coolant temp sender, 2004 is on the change for obd, if you know anybody with one (obd tester) just check it out from cold make sure it shows it progressively rising.

If its duffed and telling the ecu the temp is 80 degrees all the time it'll short fuel the engine when cold, when the engine is warm it'll be fine because this is what it's aiming at.

worth a punt, sometimes the gauge on the dash is a different sensor the the engine coolant temp one for the ecu.

Ted

[maltloaf]

I've read elsewhere to check that sensor. I'll try and get it checked out.

The injector cleaner was run through from the tank

Cheers both

[maltloaf]

I bought a cheap pc based scanner from ebay and connected it up. Everything looks normal (to my untrained eye) EXCEPT the intake air temperature, which is reading around 20 degrees celcius, even though at the moment, the air temp outside is more like 3 degrees. All of the other sensors make sense, coolant temp raises nicely and sits at about 80 max, throttle, etc.

Could this cause the poor cold idle ? Where is the sensor ? if it's in the MAF, I've already swapped that for a secondhand one which acts just the same. Help !


malty

[k11jrp]

20 degrees is never right mate if the engine is told it is warmer than it is, the mixture will be wrong, then as the car heats up (after your 10 mins) the mixtures even out and thus lumpyness goes away. Thats my theory anyway, and i'm sticking to it

[maltloaf]

yea the theory sounds right to me too, but my problem is if the sensor is part of the MAF as I suspect it is, I have already changed that (admittedly for a secondhand one). I find it had to believe that 2 different MAFs have exactly the same fault...

[BIG-TED]

if you can go up the road and your pc thingy will monitor on a road test when you boot it the air intake should go down with the rush of air over the sensor.
if you unplug the sensor it should default to a given good value. "get you home mode" type setting.

Ted

[maltloaf]

the air temp on the display goes down as I drive yes, but still is high. i.e. it goes down from 20 degrees to around 15 degrees (celcius)

Havent tried running the scanner with the maf unplugged yet, I must admit.

[maltloaf]

right, just unplugged the MAF and connected the scanner. The intake air temp went to -40 and the car wouldn't idle at all. Reconnected it and it's gone back to 20 degrees ish.

[BIG-TED]

doubt it's that if it's screwed, it'll normally just give 1 value and it doesn't change at all when running if it's dead.

Ted

[maltloaf]

I cleaned my old MAF/temp sensor with antistatic cleaner and put it back on and the temp now reads right. It seems to have improved the cold idle problem but not eliminated it. It's less severe in as far it now doesn't almost stall, just drops/shudders and now only does it for 5 mins not 10.

Also I've noticed it doesn't do it at all straight away after starting, but starts about 1 minute later, which is making me lean towards the EGR valve...

[windy1603]

There is a known problem with these gives a poor idle and difficult to start (sometimes later as the fault develops). If you do a quick search on google for 2.2 DCi SCV (suction control valve) or pump metering valve. Nissan sell the valve on it's own but it is not cheep and a bit of struggle to fit

[maltloaf]

yea i've seen that mentioned on my travels, but the symptoms other people describe don't seem to quite match mine. I heard it was a doddle to fit though ? 2 bolts they said. Do you know where it is so I can have a look. I know it's part of the main fuel pump but I'm a bit of a diesel n00b

[windy1603]

Not done one myself but i believe its fitted on the back face of the High Pressure pump

[maltloaf]

been reading the fuel pump needs re-setting after it's changed so sounds like a garage job. Will have a word with nissan and a couple of local specialists and see how much it's going to cost total. cheers for the replies

[pedroT]

Reading with interest your problem with Tino 2.2dci. I have a similar problem on mine:- hunting at idle revs(regardless of engine temp) and poor starting on first start of the day.

[maltloaf]

I haven't solved it yet. Think I'm going to have to resort to nissan diagnostics. Let me know if you have any luck.

My best **guess** so far is the Suction Control Valve which is about £100 plus you need the fuel pump resetting by Nissan