If you still have the syphon type flush valve fitted to your toilet cistern then this is how you can repair a non-flushing toilet for as little as £0. Yes £0… Cheap at twice the price! I would rate it quite a simple job for any reasonably competent DIYer.
First you will need to empty the cistern of water. For this you can use a mug or a jug or use a metre of hose pipe to syphon it into a bowl. Don’t be afraid to suck on the end of the pipe to start syphoning because even though you are working on a toilet the water in the tank is drinkable – unless you live like pigs and the cistern is full of toilet paper and grime because the lid was last seen somewhere out in the garden, or maybe you hide your stash of drugs in there which may have leaked. (Tip: Its one of the first places they look. Trust me I know cos I saw it on The Bill years ago).
You will also find it quicker and easier to empty the tank if you have first turned the water supply off. Common sense really but I have to mention it because its surprising how many people were absent when common sense was shared out. If there is no isolating valve on the supply pipe because you’re a cheapskate and had the local cowboys in to install the toilet, then you can always turn the supply off at the stop tap which is usually located under the kitchen sink. If the stop tap is seized, as it quite often is, then for the sake of your floor/carpets/marriage make sure you can access and turn the main stop tap on the road outside before trying to force it.
If it is a wall mounted cistern with a pipe leading to the toilet bowl then the cistern can be left in place and you only need to remove the flush device by disconnecting the wire connecting the plunger shaft to the flush handle before undoing the large pipe and removing the large plastic or brass nut under the tank. The flush device should then lift out. If it’s in the way you may have to unscrew the ball from the cock (legit plumbing terms… honestly).
If you have a close coupled cistern (the cistern sits on the back of the toilet bowl) you will need to remove it by first disconnecting the water supply pipe and overflow pipe; then taking out the screws securing it to the wall and undoing the two nuts bolting it to the toilet bowl. You can then access the large nut underneath and proceed to remove the flush device as described above.
If you have the old cast iron cistern high up on the wall with a chain flush then stop living in 1948 and just get a complete new one.
The way the flush device works:
The flush device consists of a plunger which when pulled forces water up and around the bend and down the pipe to the toilet bowl. As the end of the pipe is lower than the tank the water naturally wants to syphon its way from the tank to the bowl until the tank is empty..ish. To allow this to happen the plunger which forced the water over the top to start the syphon action must allow the rest of the water in the tank to flow freely past it. This is easily achieved by making the valve diaphragm out of thin polyethylene which simply folds out of the way. It’s this thin sheet of polyethylene that usually fails. If the toilet requires several quick pulls on the lever to get the flush going then it’s usually a sign that the valve is starting to tear. Fortunately there are plenty of items made from a similar type of polyethylene in everyday use around the home, office or workplace. What you need is a sheet of polyethylene that is thick enough to keep its shape without wrinkling but flexible enough to bend easily. I have a few times used a folder section divider. The old valve you remove will give you a fair idea of what you need to repair it.
The Repair:
The flush device removed from the tank.
Remove the wire link and stainless steel washer.
Remove the plunger. You should immediately see the damaged polyethylene valve.
Remove the spring and plastic ring which helps to hold the valve in place.
Using the old valve or the plunger as a pattern cut a new valve from a sheet of polyethylene using a pair of scissors.
Fit the valve to the plunger and replace the plastic ring and spring to help hold it in place. Make sure the valve is not wider than the plunger or it may drag on the side of the syphon and oppose the springs effort to return it to the original position.
Fit the plunger back in the syphon and refit the washer and wire link. Pull on the plunger and release to make sure it operates smoothly without catching.
Refitting is a reversal of the removal noting the following points: When refitting the flush device check the condition of the rubber gasket where the syphon attaches to the tank. If in doubt replace it. For close coupled cisterns check the wide rubber ring that fits between the tank and the toilet. Again if in doubt replace it. Also don't over-tighten the screws that attach the tank to the wall in case you crack the plastic or ceramic.
I have tried to be reasonably thorough with these instructions but can not accept any responsibility if through your own actions you flood the bathroom/wreck your ceiling/drown your cat/dog/kids. (">
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