Soldering Skills needed?

[Nibb]

I need a regulator changed on my VU Duo circuit board - anyone up to the job??

Its far too small for me to attempt?

Thanks

[Detector]

get me a photo of the work and size of unit to be changed ill do it if I can just for postage

[Nibb]

Thanks Det - Ill up a pic or two now

[Nibb]

Here u go Det

the regulator is in the red box - U801IMG_5331_zpsaaoypnhj.jpg

Could u possibly also change the 2 capacitors in the square red boxes - I have changed the bottom one as you can see

The norm is that the 3 capacitors and the regulator need changing

[Detector]

hi mate, thought id replied, the caps are very easy to do, the hardest part is the regulator unfortunately too small for me

[BigBird]

In my experience the regulator will be the easiest. It seems the solder used these days has a higher melting point so a normal soldering iron doesn't always cut it, especially with multilayer boards where there is solder right through and on the other side. My guess is that the heat is lost into copper tracks within the layers and doesn't make it to the solder holding the component on the other side of the board - Not without holding the soldering iron in place for what seems a lot longer than feels necessary anyway.

The surface mount regulator pins are sitting on the surface on one side only so is usually reasonably easy to remove the device using a gas soldering iron with a very narrow hot air attachment. You can see in the image that the nozzle is no bigger than a pen point. I have changed many small 8 pin components using a gas soldering iron fitted with a very small hot air attachment with much success (some of you may remember the Celnet/Philips C12 chip swap hack which I introduced you to on a certain infamous forum some 15 years ago, as opposed to the piggy back chip method which was untidy and a pain to do). Fitting the new component is just a matter of applying some solder paste to the pins, placing it in position and running the hot air gun along the pins while if necessary pressing lightly on the component.

I use a good quality Weller Pyropen with an optional extra small nozzle. Bought it around 15 years ago for something or other. Doesn't get continuous use like it did at the time but still works and comes in handy when a soldering iron isn't up to the job.

Happy to have a go for you. Never any guarantees with this sort of thing but I would estimate that so far I have a 95% success rate with this type of repair. (">

[EvilBoB]

This might seem like a stupid thing to say but couldn't you just snip/cut/dremel the legs and solder the new one to the stumps that are left. Wouldn't be the prettiest sight and a bit ghetto but can't see any reason why it wouldn't work and would be a darned sight easier than removing it properly. I'm sure someone here is probably shuddering with the thought of this mutilation of technology but if it works...

[Tim.Lad]

You really need a SMD hot air rework station for this sort of work, I have an older Metcal unit with spade attachments for this kind of work but like bigbird I would not garentee anything I only ever do this kind of work for myself or family let me know if you want me to take a look

[WRATH OF BOD]

would it not be easier to find another board from fleebay?

[Nibb]

In my experience the regulator will be the easiest. It seems the solder used these days has a higher melting point so a normal soldering iron doesn't always cut it, especially with multilayer boards where there is solder right through and on the other side. My guess is that the heat is lost into copper tracks within the layers and doesn't make it to the solder holding the component on the other side of the board - Not without holding the soldering iron in place for what seems a lot longer than feels necessary anyway.

The surface mount regulator pins are sitting on the surface on one side only so is usually reasonably easy to remove the device using a gas soldering iron with a very narrow hot air attachment. You can see in the image that the nozzle is no bigger than a pen point. I have changed many small 8 pin components using a gas soldering iron fitted with a very small hot air attachment with much success (some of you may remember the Celnet/Philips C12 chip swap hack which I introduced you to on a certain infamous forum some 15 years ago, as opposed to the piggy back chip method which was untidy and a pain to do). Fitting the new component is just a matter of applying some solder paste to the pins, placing it in position and running the hot air gun along the pins while if necessary pressing lightly on the component.

I use a good quality Weller Pyropen with an optional extra small nozzle. Bought it around 15 years ago for something or other. Doesn't get continuous use like it did at the time but still works and comes in handy when a soldering iron isn't up to the job.

Happy to have a go for you. Never any guarantees with this sort of thing but I would estimate that so far I have a 95% success rate with this type of repair. (">

Hi mate,
I'm happy for you to have a crack at it - if it goes tits up no problem!
Aren't u in Cardiff?
If so I could meet you somewhere as I work in Llanishan

[plug1]

In my experience the regulator will be the easiest. It seems the solder used these days has a higher melting point so a normal soldering iron doesn't always cut it, especially with multilayer boards where there is solder right through and on the other side. My guess is that the heat is lost into copper tracks within the layers and doesn't make it to the solder holding the component on the other side of the board - Not without holding the soldering iron in place for what seems a lot longer than feels necessary anyway.

The surface mount regulator pins are sitting on the surface on one side only so is usually reasonably easy to remove the device using a gas soldering iron with a very narrow hot air attachment. You can see in the image that the nozzle is no bigger than a pen point. I have changed many small 8 pin components using a gas soldering iron fitted with a very small hot air attachment with much success (some of you may remember the Celnet/Philips C12 chip swap hack which I introduced you to on a certain infamous forum some 15 years ago, as opposed to the piggy back chip method which was untidy and a pain to do). Fitting the new component is just a matter of applying some solder paste to the pins, placing it in position and running the hot air gun along the pins while if necessary pressing lightly on the component.

I use a good quality Weller Pyropen with an optional extra small nozzle. Bought it around 15 years ago for something or other. Doesn't get continuous use like it did at the time but still works and comes in handy when a soldering iron isn't up to the job.

Happy to have a go for you. Never any guarantees with this sort of thing but I would estimate that so far I have a 95% success rate with this type of repair. (">

Its a smd ,its soldered to top of the board ,so being a sandwich makes no diference ,hot air would lift that of.f in seconds .

[pickie]

I used to do surface mount soldering,inspection and rework, also for a laptop repair company, if you cant get anyone else then ill take a look,

[BigBird]

Its a smd ,its soldered to top of the board ,so being a sandwich makes no diference ,hot air would lift that of.f in seconds .

That is what I said in my post, "The surface mount regulator pins are sitting on the surface on one side only so is usually reasonably easy to remove the device using a gas soldering iron with a very narrow hot air attachment". (">

[BigBird]

Hi mate,
I'm happy for you to have a crack at it - if it goes tits up no problem!
Aren't u in Cardiff?
If so I could meet you somewhere as I work in Llanishan

I'm In Carmarthenshire but happy to meet you somewhere in between, but not going to be this side of Xmas I'm afraid because I have too much on. (">

[Nibb]

Ok mate no problem - I'll let you know if I still need it doing then!

[BigBird]

Don't know how urgent this is for you and whether you need it before Xmas day but if you could get it over to me at a mutually agreed time in the next couple of days then I could do it while you wait. (">

[Nibb]

I've had it sorted locally - thanks for the offers and advice! All working! [emoji16][emoji106]

[B.I.G.]

What was up with it Nibb?

Red light but no power?