i was looking at belt tensioners. i think the same thing on wooden pegs may do the same thing
wooden pegs
i was looking at belt tensioners. i think the same thing on wooden pegs may do the same thing
wooden pegs
Looks good mate. The print finish looks really nice.
As for belt tensioners, you've got a 3d printer now
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1780636
Another good search engine for files is yeggi.com
WRATH OF BOD (3rd September 2017)
Btw what slicer are you using?
The printer won't recognise an stl file unless it has something to slice the file onboard which is rare unless it has an octo print server attached. Never heard of an 3xg, most printers accept .gcode files.
Download Cura 2.7 and I'm sure you can find a copy of Simplify 3d somewhere online These will slice an stl file to .gcode which I'm pretty sure your printer will understand.
WRATH OF BOD (3rd September 2017)
a few test prints yesterday
Bald Bouncer (5th September 2017), beerman (5th September 2017), cyprus (5th September 2017), Over Carl (14th October 2017)
Bald Bouncer (5th September 2017), Over Carl (14th October 2017), WRATH OF BOD (5th September 2017)
i must admit i am really impressed with quality out of the box.
now using makerbot desktop to convert to correct format, all looks easy so far
I looked at S3d and it has an option for saving as 3xg. Unknown to me it's a makerbot format. Ditch makerbot desktop and locate yourself a copy of s3d.
On a different note I did one of the enable hands, I printed it for approval but had a small clog so parts of it are under extruded. It's also printed in PLA and not sure what the normal enable hands are printed in, probably not PLA. There's a member on here that is an enable project member so might send him a pm for advice.
I still need the elastic, wire and velcro but the structure is there.
Bald Bouncer (5th September 2017), Over Carl (14th October 2017), WRATH OF BOD (5th September 2017)
to raft or not to raft, i am trying a few prints without using a raft as it seems to use a lot of filament And a bugger to remove
Are you still using makerbot desktop? I'll pm you
Rafts are only needed if you are having problems with it sticking to to bed, they shouldn't be hard to remove. I've never had an issue removing them when using s3d.
I find brims work just as well, just give it 3-5 loops and it should be OK. Obviously if you are printing something tall and thin give it more.
Here's a Cura feature that is tempting me to switch away from S3D. It irons the print on the last layer which leaves it buttery smooth.
The left of the image is the last layer, the right is the last layer being ironed, fucking witchcraft! You can set it up in S3d but it's a ball ache, Cura it's just one click.
Edit:
A better photo to see the ironing effect:
Last edited by beerman; 6th September 2017 at 04:56 PM.
Bald Bouncer (6th September 2017), cyprus (7th September 2017), Over Carl (14th October 2017), WRATH OF BOD (11th September 2017)
my son is mad on CSgo and wanted a pair of karimba knives to stick on his pc case.
this is the 1st
Bald Bouncer (13th September 2017), beerman (13th September 2017), Over Carl (14th October 2017)
Look at you all fancy with your dual extrusion
You've got a tiny bit of ringing on the X axis if the dual colour was printed the same orientation as the red,other than that looks great.
Are those full size steppers on the X carriage or are they the smaller pancake steppers?
I emailed the Cura team about the ironing feature being very useful but needs more control. My suggestion was to only iron the very last layer as I have been printing boxes where I don't need all of it ironed, just the top layer. It's a huge time waste ironing a 150x100mm section when it won't be seen. Got an reply a few days ago from the product owner who said my suggestion has gone into internal testing and will hopefully be in the next release. I can't wait for 2.8 now.
Full-size steppers mate, ironing looks a good idea, just Downloaded Cura but not looked into it yet, iagree no point ironing all when all you need is top surface.
It's been a month, let's see what you've made then
Hopefully that iron man arm you linked me to in another thread.
For me it's been a Scout Trooper helmet:
I didn't like the mouth piece that came with it so I remodelled it. It was a small rectangle and didn't fit the cut out very well so made it full size and changed a few details. It's not screen acurate but it's better than what it was:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2572915
I've learnt from previous helmets that I am not very good at detailing so I will be printing the decals out rather than trying to hand paint them. I've also learnt that 120 grit sand paper does a hell of a lot better than 240 grit on raw PLA.
Next up once this and the death trooper are finished will be this ambitious project:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/fash...-reveal-helmet
The model is 20 euros but it's the same designer who gave away the models for 3 of the helmets I have already made so only seems fair to actually pay for one.
Bald Bouncer (13th October 2017), greens117 (13th October 2017), Over Carl (14th October 2017), piggzy (13th October 2017), WRATH OF BOD (13th October 2017)
haven't even turned mine on in weeks, just not had the time.
Stickers made and pretty much finished with the sanding so if the weather is nice I might get it finished tomorrow .
Have you looked at using frog tape? - brilliant for masking, - zero bleed. That, a straight edge and a scalpel I reckon you could master the art of detailing bud.
beerman (9th July 2018)
also, try liquid masking
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u-C64QqLiY
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