DG-16D2S 7485c woes

[{{909}}]

got the drive to flash for an old friend who was going to attempt it, when he told me it was a 16D2S i thought he'll need a probe or some soldering so I'd do it for him.

Anyway, he just dropped the drive off and I did it as per usual with the probe and jungleflasher, no problems as far as JF is concerned so gave him drive back.

Wont read or eject once its back with him so he's bought it back with the rest of the xbox this time. green light in the middle is flashing like mad

Strangely, the R707 didnt light with the probe, but oddly 709 did (didnt work to get the key though)

Ive returned it to stock, from here the machine stopped flashing but still wont eject.

R707 working again , tried re flashing it and its back to flashing like mad and not ejecting.

Anyone got any ideas?

[rIKmAN]

What probe is it mate?
I used a v3 on a 16D2S (v7) recently and it wasn't r707 I had to probe it was MPX01.

Dunno if that helps?

[{{909}}]

probe 1, i think, early one.

[tronads]

Could he have put the power lead in upside down when you returned it to him ?

I doubt its an issue as to where you probed it, as it had to work, or you wouldnt have gotten the key etc.

[{{909}}]

I guess he could have, he just told me he tried the drive in another machine where it would eject. Odd think about it is both drives will eject on the other Xbox but neither will on the one paired with the drive I flashed.

[tronads]

As simple as this might sound.....tell him to check the drive power cable hasnt slipped half out at the motherboard end...I had this once where I had pretty much written off the console/drive and console, but it was as simple as the connector wasnt fully in at the board end.

[mrbongo]

i had the exact same problem with an hitachi drive where it wouldnt open to the paired machine,but i had another board from hitachi which i put on and flashed and all was well can open close drive,i still do not understand why it wont work on 1st drive so id like to no for future ref...cheers

[{{909}}]

He's bought me another drive now, same model but with a knackered laser (i assume), I can try spoofing that if needed, I'd rather just find out whats wrong with this one first though. Going to have a mess about shortly.

[{{909}}]

anyone got any idea where I should go from here...current got the drive in its flashed state, seems totally dead when in the 360. Reads in JF with the drawer half open...

Tried following the JF tut as if the drive was already flashed but it cant do the dummy from ixtreme command (tells me to put the drive into half open mode).

I dont seem to be able to read the drive as normal as the probe doesnt work on R707 and other points which light the probe light dont read either.

[tronads]

If you have flashed the drive with LT, you will lose the ability to probe R707, along with Dummy from Ixtreme etc, so thats not abnormal.
Is the drive ejecting using the CK3. Did you check the 360 drive power cable is fully connected at the motherboard end ?

[{{909}}]

checked power cables and me mate says hes swapped them from the other machine to check its not the wire thats buggered.

Drive ejects and works normally with the CK3, half open and JF reads it straight away.

[tronads]

Well it sounds to me like there is nothing at all wrong with the drive, its the xbox itself. The good news if that is the case, is that you can't be blamed as you were never given the box to start with.

I believe if you were to leave the drive in the 360 for a few minutes, you would eventualy get the drive timeout shutdown (that used to kill Hitachi's if you were powering from the machine and didnt do it quick enough).

Id be slapping the drive in a known good 360 (after flashing the f/w to that drive accordingly) to confirm its good.

I would be enquiring on the history of the machine, ie was it 100% confirmed working beforehand. Did you do a full dump of the drive beforehand ? Was it stock or already flashed - if it was already flashed, was it already up to date (ie why was it needing reflashing)...etc etc

First thing I ever do with a 360 is test it with an original as soon as I get it, before its opened up. I learnt that lesson back in the Playstation 1 days when I was given one to chip that was owned by the town's drug/crime baron, and it turned out to be dead on arival, but I never thought to check it until I'd had it several hours before I started work on it.

[{{909}}]

yeah, been there and done that, this is one of the few times I haven't insisted on them bringing the whole machine to me, just thought if would save time since he had already stripped the machine and i was feeling lazy.....

Just rung him and he says he took the machine apart weeks ago and "the cat liked to sleep in it", the metal strips that are on the sides of the dvd mount came off and were rattling around too, so there is maybe a chance the 360 is knackered.

[{{909}}]

right, got a 360 here with a knackered Benq VAD6038 in, is there any reason why I cant read the key off this, whack it on the 16D2S and use it in the machine the Benq came from?

[tronads]

right, got a 360 here with a knackered Benq VAD6038 in, is there any reason why I cant read the key off this, whack it on the 16D2S and use it in the machine the Benq came from?

Well, I did just compose a method as to how I would do it, as I "thought" spoofing was now blocked in Jungleflasher.

But I just fired it up and gave it a try, and all you have to do is click "manual spoofing" and select the benq in the pull down box.

So for you...
1. Hook up your liteon drive and power it up (tray doesnt matter)
2. click open source firmware and load the dummy.bin from your liteon backup.
3. Allow JF to autoload destination firmware
4. click manual spoofing
5. overwrite key with benq key
6. Select benq (VAD6038) in the pulldown box
7. Click OK, then save to file.
8. Go to MTK Flash32 and click lite-on erease.
9. power cycyle the drive.
10. Click Write and wait for flashing and verification
11. Click outro/ATA reset

Done.

[{{909}}]

hmm, well i just tried to spoof the benq to the 16D2S and i got 1 red light, but the dash on this machine is donkeys old (the blades one) so there shouldn't be any spoof detection.

JF has options for spoofing, so i cant see why it wouldn't be able to do it.

[tronads]

Sorry , my apoligies for the timing there....please read my revised post.

ALSO --- BLADE DASHBOARD !!!!!

ITS HIGHLY LIKELY THIS IS A JTAG SUITABLE MACHINE
IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON PUTTING IN A GOOD DRIVE AND JUST USING THIS AS A NORMAL MACHINE RATHER THAN JTAGGING IT PLEASE CONSIDER OFFERING IT FOR SALE/SWAP TO THE GOOD PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM INSTEAD !

[{{909}}]

heh, i know its jtaggable

but, i need to get this other working before i think about that, ill try following your guide, as the steps i took were (randomly) different.

[{{909}}]

getting a bit side tracked now, but it turns out the second drive he bought up is the same model benq i was trying to spoof with (and not a liteon) and he uses the kinect dash, so, at the end of the day, he's screwed.

[tronads]

Well you can still test the first liteon drive by spoofing it and putting it in your old one...just be careful to test it on a very old game that wont accidentaly give you a dash update !