The white stuff if just glue , it's common to stop squealing
The white stuff if just glue , it's common to stop squealing
Ok an update...
I plugged in my 5 quid soldering iron and touched all of the caps, and melted the white glue on the cap, touching the metal on the top. Nothing.
Then i attempted to melt through the plastic cover on the larger cap.
It sparked, went bang and the noise stopped.
Im not sure what happened, apart from the obvious.
What I can confirm, is that there is a hole in the top of the large cap, and nothing happens now.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ra-electr-...ht_2548wt_1060
you need to replace it with that m8, with the noise stopping im guessing it was that pal!
A wise man once said " "
There are 3 types of people in the world - those who make things happen, those who watch things happen; and those who wondered what happened.
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Conservatives. Putting the 'N' into Cuts.
bobo06 (1st March 2014), Detector (1st March 2014), Zippeyrude (1st March 2014)
no m8 the plastic only goes to the top and stops the rest is metal. tbh if it stopped buzzing after you touched that cap then I would say that is the one to replace!!!
A wise man once said " "
plug1 (1st March 2014)
Looks like the cap was this one
Siemens B43502-F476-M97 (22x25mm)
http://images.ihscontent.net/vipimag...EMD103-243.pdf
Jeeez...that big cap is on the mains side of the PSU! The reason it sparked & produced a bang is that your soldering iron is earthed. It's rated at around 400v for a reason, and has a rubber protective cover for a reason. Whatever you do, do not touch it while it is powered up, now that the protective rubber cover has been destroyed. It may be the last thing you touch if you do!
It is very rare for those primary caps to go bad. It is normally the lower voltage ones on the secondary (safe) side that go faulty. That cap was probably OK before you touched it with the soldering iron. You might also have taken out the mains rectifier (or one or more of the individual rectifier diodes if it has them), or the mains input filter, or the inrush current limiter (if it has one), or an on board fuse.
Last edited by fossil; 1st March 2014 at 01:07 AM.
ok basically foobared now, cheers.
amazon beckons for a new one i think
Pmsl You've fucked it , yeh that's why the cap is totally covered in plastic , if you don't know wtf your doing you
really should stay away from big electrolytic caps .
The voltage from that could be in the thousands .
You've grounded it when you touched it with the iron .
if it was totally covered in plastic then I would not have touched it with a very hot soldering iron that will melt plastic shielding away :/
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Bet he needed a change of underwear ,when it popped ,lol
Detector (1st March 2014)
you may be able to buy a complete power pcb from ebay or amazon, whats the full model number of the unit again, and does the pcb have any marking on it at all? any serial or part numbers???
A wise man once said " "
@zippyrude don't touch it anymore, and don't touch any of the others, just leave it now mate. you are best off getting a complete replacement now anyway. at least you have not been injured lol
A wise man once said " "
plug1 (1st March 2014), Zippeyrude (1st March 2014)
IT would have been Down to you Det , for telling him to do it . Lol
Detector (1st March 2014)
anyone recommend a receiver that will work on a 1m gregorian dish (motorised) for viewing the italian stuff?
@plug cheers mate, I never said burn plastic right down to metal to see what reaction you get though?
A wise man once said " "
Tbh Det I seen trouble ahead when you suggested putting an iron the caps ,effectively grounding the cap case
but I presumed that the op would been clued up enough to stay back from the primary side of the board .
as I said earlier large electrolytic caps can be dangerous .Even after they have been powered down for some time .
psu boards are usually full of them but are relatively easy to repair , but can be quite dangerous if you don't understand
how to treat them correctly .
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