Custom made light progress thread

[CallmeGoose]

Preferably I want one in each hole..... (Que hilarity)


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[CallmeGoose]

Instead of a tube I could use some devcon magic putty epoxy to hold the wires in place and sculpt it to fit the structure of the light....


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[macmilm]

As the main body is steel you could just use the structure for the positive feed so no wires needed... you would not be able to touch it when plugged in however ;-)

[rids]

Could you run a strip of acrylic up the back and only light it at the bottom. Then you ruff up the plastic where you want the light to come out it.


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[Goldberg]

Why have lamps on it at all? Why not have uplighting to it from the ground, working with the curves? For example something potiting at it like this (but not this): http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/light...FUTHtAodSi0ABA

[CallmeGoose]

Definitely a different approach, although i do think it would look better with lights mounted on it somewhere.

LEDs strips are out of the question for 2 reasons:

1) I would need the spacing between the LEDs on the strip to be as close to 34mm as possible to line up with the holes.
2) the strip would cover up the holes from the back and would just look naff.

Individual LEDs are also proving to be an issue due to not being able to find the right one with the desired diameter and depth.

Although I like your idea Goldberg , it's mainly function is for it to be a light and not a sculpture

More googling required today I think!

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[Goldberg]

So have the uplighter behind it in a corner maybe?

[CallmeGoose]

Now here's and idea... what do you lot think of this?

Instead of having LEDs in every hole. What about having these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10W-16mm-W...item33833a742c

In only the top hole of each curve, pointing down?

Not being an electrician I would have no clue how to wire these up to mains voltage???

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[tombott]

I'd fix a big movable bulb on the top, and run a metal pole (copper or chrome) through the middle using the holes to secure it.
Then run the wiring for the bulb through the pole, coming out at the floor and hook up to a footswitch.

[CallmeGoose]

I'd fix a big movable bulb on the top, and run a metal pole (copper or chrome) through the middle using the holes to secure it.
Then run the wiring for the bulb through the pole, coming out at the floor and hook up to a footswitch.

Now I like that idea, a chrome pipe running the length would look the nuts!


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[tombott]

A beautifully sketched image to show you what I mean



I'd look at using an anglepoise lamp as a donor

[BigBird]

Now here's and idea... what do you lot think of this?

Instead of having LEDs in every hole. What about having these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10W-16mm-W...item33833a742c

In only the top hole of each curve, pointing down?

Not being an electrician I would have no clue how to wire these up to mains voltage???

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They would be wired the same way as normal leds using the solder pads on the board the leds are mounted on...the ones marked + and -. Saw these yesterday but it's the board the led is mounted on that is 16mm not the led. The led is about 5mm. not that that would matter because they would be very bright so you wouldn't see the board they are mounted on.

I do like tombott's idea of the tube going up through the middle and it would be a lot easier and cheaper. (">

[CallmeGoose]

Right we are getting somewhere . Narrowed it down to 2 ideas...

The pipe and light idea (need to source a swivel ball joint style lamp)

And the cree LEDs like this idea (another in depth technical drawing)



I'm assuming if I have 3 of those cree LEDs at Working voltage: 3.0~3.5V, I would need a basic 22v-12v power supply?


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[BigBird]

I'm assuming if I have 3 of those cree LEDs at Working voltage: 3.0~3.5V, I would need a basic 22v-12v power supply?

You could use a 10.5v dc power supply with the leds wired in series or a 3.5v dc power supply with the leds in wired in parallel. You could use a bigger power supply with a series resistor but it would be a big resistor and would get hot because the leds are 10 watts each. Not a big problem because they can be mounted on the base and the metal structure would make a great heatsink. (">

[CallmeGoose]

Would the 10.5 DC supply with the LEDs in series get hot?


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[BigBird]

Would the 10.5 DC supply with the LEDs in series get hot?


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It would get warm but no more than a laptop or tablet power supply for example.

If you cant get or build a supply with the right voltage then this is the type of resistor you would need to mount on a metal heatsink or even the base of the lamp. the resistance value would be chosen depending on the supply voltage you are using. (">

[CallmeGoose]

went to b&q for inspiration and saw these



buy 3 of these and take the light and flexi cord of the pipe (will be using my own length of chrome pipe running the fill length of the light worth holes drilled at intervals for the wires to run through)


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[CallmeGoose]

right got some copper tubing 15mm. as you can see it doesn't sit 100% straight but I don't think this matter that much, it all looks good

The copper pipe is a template as Ihave sooner 15.87mm engineering grade stainless tube on order. Don't like mixing metal on any job






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[Goldberg]

Looks like you have speared a snake!

[tombott]

I reckon that will look great CallmeGoose