Car audio guys...

[BigBrand]

Belting cheers mate, I've got some mains leads lying around at home, so will have a go with that tonight, and you recommend I run it bridged?

It'll give me a chance to open the sub up actually, as I've not seen inside where the cable has gone into (terminals are not on the outside of the box)

Will report back later tonight - cheers for your help boys.

[dav]

hi there you don't need to change the amp wires there fine they will run that amp no probs sorry to pegasus

[Zippeyrude]

Trust me Zippey, you start trying to pump (say) 100W through that bell wire that BB is currently using and it will be breaking down internally due to the fact it simply cannot carry that much current.
A good analogy would be trying to run a kettle from a mains lead that is only rated for 3A. Sure it will work (in the beginning), but you won't successfully boil that kettle as the cable will give up long before the water has managed to boil.

@ BB
Get yourself a length of mains cable that is at least 1mm² in cross sectional area, for example a mains extension lead rated at 10A will be sufficient to act as the wire from the amp to the sub.
The remote won't cause it to go in to protect mode, all the remote does is provide a trigger (in the form of a constant 12v) to tell the amp to switch on. If that 12v is missing, the amp switches off.


PS
@ BB again

That cable you linked to will be fine, but you can also use a bit of old mains extension lead if you like.

Absolutely agree, thats what I thought it was - i.e. the size of a mains extension wire.

[Pegasus]

hi there you don't need to change the amp wires there fine they will run that amp no probs sorry to pegasus

We are talking about the output Dav, not the power supply

[dav]

oh ok sorry

[plug1]

How is the head unit connected to the amp ?
ie balanced line out, or from the spkr cables .

but it's most probably as said before ,you need to run a thick cable fom the batt
to the amp , and maybe even a capacitor ,to buffer the current .

[BigBrand]

How is the head unit connected to the amp ?
ie balanced line out, or from the spkr cables .

but it's most probably as said before ,you need to run a thick cable fom the batt
to the amp , and maybe even a capacitor ,to buffer the current .

Headunit is connected via Phonos and the remove ignition cable.

I'm already running an 8 Gauge from the battery into an inline fuse, and then down into the AMP.

[Pegasus]

Your power cables are fine BB, just let us know the outcome once you've swapped that bell wire on the output for something a tad more substantial

[BigBrand]

Ha yup, got some flex today, so will try sort it tomorrow when I get time!

[Zippeyrude]

Ha yup, got some flex today, so will try sort it tomorrow when I get time!

ping me if you need some real tunes to test the sub

[BigBrand]

Ha it's for my lad. he has a collection utterly shit music no doubt.

[Zippeyrude]

Ha it's for my lad. he has a collection utterly shit music no doubt.

pm me your email addy mate, ill send a track across ...

[BigBrand]

Installed the flex today guys was working for a minute or so and then kicked back into protection mode. I'd used some flex and bridged the amp across both channels. This is how it is currently.

[BigBrand]

[Pegasus]

It's a bit difficult to tell from the pic but that flex doesn't look like it's anywhere near the cross sectional area I specified bud, it needs to go up in size.

PS
Does it trip when the volume is kept at a low (sensible) level, or just when you crank it up?

[BigBrand]

You meant the cores size or the size of the actual cable sheath?
The gain is all the way down. The settings are in 80hz and the volume is low, I've not cracked it up yet.

[supraman54]

double up the cables to increase the effective size and see if it still trips..
supe

[Pegasus]

You meant the cores size or the size of the actual cable sheath?
The gain is all the way down. The settings are in 80hz and the volume is low, I've not cracked it up yet.

I was referring to the actual conductor size, but if it's going in to protect mode at low volume levels then that would lead me to believe the fault lies elsewhere because I would expect that flex to be fine when it's not being stressed.

I'd suggest replacing the sub for a known good speaker (that can take the low volume levels you have been trying it with thus far) and see if it trips then.
If it doesn't then the voice coil in the sub is obviously breaking down when it starts to warm up, but if it still trips with a known good speaker then I'd have to say there is a fault within the amp itself.

Note the "test" speaker doesn't necessarily have to be another sub, all we want to establish at the moment is that it isn't your sub breaking down when it starts to warm up.

[BigBrand]

OK, thanks for that, I'll give this a go this weekend. I've got a decent bookshelf speaker inside, should I run just the one speaker or both in both channels? Also, if I'm going to test one speaker, do I use it bridged or just use one of the two channels?

[Pegasus]

Wire it in the same configuration you've been wiring the sub in mate.
If it still trips, try using a speaker connected to each channel and see what happens then.

If it still trips after that, I'd be putting my money on a defective amp.