You mean the 10 in the bottom left yellow A section for the dial and to physically unplug the red lead and plug it into the 10AMP MAX socket ??
Sorry i'm a cunt. Thanks
You mean the 10 in the bottom left yellow A section for the dial and to physically unplug the red lead and plug it into the 10AMP MAX socket ??
Sorry i'm a cunt. Thanks
Yes, that is correct.
Also to measure amps, you need to break the circuit and measure in line.
E.g. to test how much the whole car is drawing, unplug a battery terminal, and put the meter one end on battery terminal one end on battery.
piggzy (20th November 2016)
Over Carl (20th November 2016)
It will be AC relay or the hands free , I think the fuse
for hft is marked " i "
piggzy (20th November 2016)
Don't think it has hands free !!!! It is a 2003 I think that came later. I still think it could be related to the boot but Air Con is deffo a possibility.
Lets say for example it is air con. So I remove aircon fuse and all is well. What does it take to fix it so I can restore use of aircon??? Or is that a whole new spiders web :-)
If you are going to use it to test individual circuits by pulling fuses, then you are correct that you don't need to disconnect battery terminal. I mentioned that if you want to see the total drain of the whole car.
Pulling fuses was a good technique on older stuff, but on cars with loads of ECU's you can end up chasing your tail.
Problem is, as previously mentioned, each car will have a period in which ECU's go to sleep (often 15-30 mins).
If you pull a fuse and then put your meter in place of the fuse, you might make an ECU reset so you might need to unlock/lock and then wait however long it takes for the car to go to sleep again to take a proper reading.
Plug is right about the 10A thing - you should be testing with everything in the car off and I highly doubt it's drawing 10A when everything is off.
Another technique is to put the meter on the battery terminals to monitor power drain from whole car, and pull fuses one by one until current drops. Then put them all back in except that fuse, unlock/lock car, wait for it to go sleep and check again.
plug1 and Overcarl thanks for your help.
You must agree that cars have become so over complicated .
I assume unplugging an ECU that you suspect of causing the drain would help ???? I know where the tailgate ECU is (in the boot-lining of the roof) and can unplug.
If it's easy to get to, then yes just unplug it and see what happens.
The reason for testing from fusebox is because you can test power drain of any point in the car from fusebox.
piggzy (21st November 2016)
Well the drain went away for a couple of weeks but came back 2 days ago. First chance to test was just now. Drain at battery showed 0.25 . Normal or the drain ????
Anyway started testing fuse by fuse and the third fuse I tested showed the draw of 0.22 so I assume this is the one.
It is a 40 amp fuse and the Book just shows a (!) with not much info. Bit of digging and find a label of "Backup - ACC".
Started the car and it seems to have disabled interior lights e.g. When I put headlights on the headlights are fine but I no longer get the lights on the dash e.t.c Also radio and clock are gone.
Does it seem like I found the drain or is 0.25 a normal drain and my annoying fucking problem has gone away again ??
Thanks for any advice guys. Really appreciate it. Would be nice to sort it and have CD player back :-(
Edit: Aircon, heaters, windows etc all still working fine. So the ACC doesnt mean Aircon
Shit it also disabled the Central Locking & Alarm !!!!
Last edited by piggzy; 3rd December 2016 at 02:14 PM.
No that's normal , it's for the stereo
piggzy (3rd December 2016)
Ah ok so the 0.25 is considered low ?????
Will keep testing then as it must have stopped draining again ffs.
I posted above that it didnt have handsfree but it actually does. I would assume that is this fuse I just pulled though as it will be linked to the Radio.
So should I be expecting numbers much higher than 0.25 ??
ACC is an ignition signal (Basically should make sure that things get powered when ignition is on). If you are getting a drain then there may be a short somewhere. Is your stereo an aftermarket one? If so do you know if it is wired in correctly? Some people wire up the ignition signal incorrectly to get permanent 12v which lets them use the stereo even when the ignition is off
Might be worth removing the stereo and see if that drain is still there.
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the blue tooth module is behind the air vents in the centre of the dash try unplugging it to see if it cures the drain
have a read of this thread
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1383-hft/
It is factory stereo. On further investigation I noticed a holder for a mobile phone that for a big boy like me wasnt all that visible is it was sort of under the steering wheel near my knee. Any this is after market and it has a wire going into it to power the mobile. Noticed late last night that where the wire goes in it is all frayed so I assume the positive and negative are touching each other. Could that cause much of a drain. Gonna cut the wires today and remove it.
I left the fuse out as above (ACC) and not had any issues all weekend. I assume the fuse would be cutting the power to this frayed wire as it is all connected to the Radio???
Thanks for info guys. Hoping that is the end of it !!
Over Carl (5th December 2016)
Hopefully sounds like you might have nailed it. Tape up those loose ends (or even better just unplug all the plugs from the aftermarket telephone module), and see what happens.
piggzy (5th December 2016)
Ahhh nice find. I had a Celica GT4 a few years back that had a similar thing. It was a black box in the passengers floorwell that was basically a speaker. The connection to the phone (pre-bluetooth) had long been disconnected. For the sake of a couple of screws I don't understand why they left the speaker in but removed the phone cable. Luckily this didn't drain any power in my case but certainly in your case I could see that. Rule of thumb for after market gadgets is there should be an inline fuse to prevent any unwanted grounding/shorts but some of the cheaper equipment doesn't have this. If the fray cause positive and negative to make any contact it would complete the circuit and drain power but should pop a fuse. As the drain is quite low and intermittent it's more likely the unit has a fault causing it to stay powered on when the car is off from time to time.
I would say get under the dash and remove it and the cabling if it's not needed. No point in it being there
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piggzy (6th December 2016)
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